The pattern on woolens are usually geometrical, with the color palette ranging from blue, saffron, to purples and greens. The body of each shawl is a simple twill weave made with colorful inlay pattern set using hand manipulations with colored woolen threads. Pattu shawls are a specialty of the kullu Valley and are traditionally made in black and white in a square pattern.
The Himachali shawl is a light woolen fabric (mill spun or hand spun) measuring 1mtrs x 2mtrs. It is draped around and over the shoulders and chest. The fiber is merino wool, local sheep wool, pashmina, angora and mixture of these. Yak hairs are also used to add variety.
The yarn used are mill dyed and also of natural wool color. The Kulvi designs and motifs woven today have originally been derived from
intricate kinnauri designs that have been enlarged enormously and simplified with the passage of time.
Seated on one side of the crowded weaving room and pahari women
spinning yarn on the charkhas, while the men
and women who are weaving, sit before their large loom, pausing to pass the bobbin wrapped with woollen thread through the skeins of warp or working in the precise detail of the geometrical motif. Their skill lies in applying even pressure to the loom, to ensure that the weave is uniform. Based on an almost intuitive perception and an inherited ability the craft skill is nurtured and developed through years of practice.